SAINT LAURENT STEALS THE SHOW
MENSWEAR PARIS
FALL WINTER 2023
Paris menswear week was held from January 17th to the 22nd, 2023. I have just finished my backlog of shows to watch and found some exciting things coming from Menswear week Paris. While many showed their collections at many locations, the star of the 2023 season was the Saint Laurent collection.
On January 17th, Anthony Vaccarello rose to the stature of my favorite menswear designer with his brilliant Saint Laurent collection for fall/winter 2023. There was not a single piece with which I didn't fall in love. Floor grazing coats elegantly cut were the force of this primarily black collection. The brilliance of these clothes is while paying homage to the founder of the house Yves Saint Laurent, Vaccarello brought a new vision to his feminized menswear that even the most masculine man could delight in.
Yves Saint Laurent, in the '60s and '70s, brought the structure and essence of menswear to womenswear. When he debuted " Le Smoking " in 1966, it was still controversial for women to wear trousers in public. Saint Laurent challenged traditional gender norms and paved the way for androgynous fashion. As Yves brought the masculine to women's fashion, Vaccarello brought the feminine to men's fashion in a way that doesn't mean a man has to wear a skirt. I deliberately play with pronouns, challenging traditional gender roles. Vaccarello is doing the same thing with this collection, challenging our ideas of what it means to be a man.
Yves Saint Laurent "Le Smoking" 1966
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent 2023
SAINT LAURENT
MENSWEAR F/W 2023
A REVIEW
The clothing that came down the runway for Saint Laurent was the height of elegance and sophistication. Long and lean silhouettes in mainly black glided across the floor. Large pussy bows framed the sleek-haired faces, cowl-front shirts exposed chests, with large cummerbunds finishing the waistlines. Black leather trousers with full legs are paired with velvet and silk tops.
Coats were highlighted; leather trench coats, patent coats, and camel coats all forwarded a theme of elegance and androgyny. Several long form-fitting sweaters with high turtlenecks added a feminine element that fulfilled the collection's unisex vibe. Satin and chiffon helped round out a collection, that is "tres chic".
Vaccarello showed clothes that were well-cut, precise, and confident. Did the designer forward the cause of gender nonconformity? Perhaps not in the larger picture. However, he blurred lines that dictate masculine and feminine and gave us a hybrid unisex collection that spoke to me about glamour, allure, mystery, and identity.
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my choices of the hottest items for your spring wardrobe
Spring 2023 has it all ! It may be hard to decide which trends you would like to add to your wardrobe. Listen to me and join the tidal wave about to hit, it is full of ruffles, bows, tulle, lace, and shimmery pretty things. Whether you are a boy or a girl, a man or a woman, binary or nonbinary, airy, ruffly, or lacy will be everywhere this spring. This year will be femme for all. After years of loungewear and sweats it is time to make a statement with the latest trend that has everybody talking. Shop the latest airy looks here.
CIAO FOR NOW J. ANDREW