THE NEW HOUSE OF VALENTINO
Ah, March 2024—when Valentino sent shockwaves through the fashion world. Pierpaolo Piccioli, the genius who gave us ethereal couture dreams, exited the House of Valentino. They said it was a “joint decision,” but in fashion, we all know that’s code for “buckle up, changes are coming!”
Enter Alessandro Michele, the eccentric maestro behind Gucci’s renaissance in the 2010s. His quirky, androgynous aesthetic turned that brand into a pop-culture juggernaut. Who can forget Harry Styles’ lace blouses or those gloriously bizarre sequin suits? Now, Michele’s stepping into Valentino’s grand arena and darling, we’re all clutching our pearls and waiting to see how this match unfolds.
By June 2024, Valentino dropped Michele’s first Resort 2025 designs, and let’s just say a whimsical extravaganza comes to mind. Think eclectic prints, offbeat silhouettes, and a touch of bohemian flair. It’s as if he’s reinterpreted the Valentino we knew, shaking up the delicate glamour with playful chaos. I must admit, I love a bit of fashion chaos—it keeps things lively.
VALENTINO S/S 2025
ALESSANDRO MICHELE'S FIRST COLLECTION FOR VALENTINO
Fast forward to Paris Fashion Week, and Michele’s debut Spring/Summer 2025 show for Valentino hit the runway with all the drama of a Broadway opening night. Being a consummate showman Alessandro Michelle abandoned the usual venue for Valentino shows, the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild and instead chose an arena out of the city, where the basement setting was full of furnishings covered with dust covers. The atmosphere was one of a stately home waiting to be opened for the social season—a far cry from the extravagance that surrounds the house's founder. The crowd gathered included the designer's friends Elton John, Harry Styles, Florence Welch, and Coleman Domingo. The front row included Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino Garavani's business partner and lifelong friend, who Facetimed the 92-year-old designer as the show unfolded. Will we ever know precisely what Valentino thinks of this extravaganza? While I'm not a mind reader, I feel the grand designer might find some of this maximalism slightly over the top!
As was Michele's practice at Gucci, the extensive collection showed 85 looks. He brought in a dizzying mix of textures, prints, and a gender-fluid aesthetic that felt both nostalgic and futuristic. But, of course, in true Michele fashion, there were some moments where it felt like an overstuffed costume trunk exploded—fabulous, yes, but a tad overwhelming. I’m all for maximalism (hello, have you met me?), but even I have to pause when too many narratives clash on one catwalk.
VALENTINO, THE RUNWAY SHOW
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Valentino was a fever dream of bows, tassels, and polka dots—oh my! If you thought maximalism was having a quiet moment, think again, darling. Michele came in with a mission, and subtlety was clearly not on the mood board. Feather boas draped casually over gowns like they were born there, while ruffles—yes, scads of them—cascaded from collars, flooding down A-line gowns in unapologetic tiers. It was like the Valentino woman had walked through a costume department and decided to wear it all simultaneously. However, this woman is neither a Valentino nor Gucci grand dame but a devotee of Michele's aesthetic. The slightly mad style of Alessandro reminds me of a dress-up trunk from my childhood, mixing it all and then adding just one more feather or bow. And you know what? I’m not mad at it.
But the pièce de résistance? The embroidery! Lavish yet delicate, it whispered of the couture collection Michele is teasing for January. Think of it as a promise—a delicious hint that today's drama is only the appetizer.
And darling, let’s not forget the accessories because Michele accessorized to filth. Netted silk turbans sat like crowns, deeply brimmed straw hats were ready to make a statement, and lace gloves added that final touch of old-school glam. Stockings peeked through alongside sling-back heels, and knee-high block-heel boots strutted down the runway like they owned the place (which they did, obviously).
Oh, and bags? Why carry one when you can have two? Each bag was an accessory, from logo-stamped envelopes to studded suede totes, but my personal favourite? A kitty cat figurine clutch. Yes, you heard me—a cat clutch. Michele just made your handbag game a lot more playful and a lot less serious.
VALENTINO S/S 2025
IN CONCLUSION
In true Michele fashion, the collection was a maximalist dream where more is definitely more. And for Valentino? This feels like the start of a wild new ride.
Still, Michele’s Valentino feels like a fresh chapter. It’s not Pierpaolo’s restrained elegance but a whimsical, rebellious spirit, but is it Valentino? Will the house lean fully into this quirky new era or maintain some of its classic roots? I, for one, can’t wait to see how this story unfolds.
CIAO FOR NOW J. ANDREW