Fashion Book Fridays
The Battle of Versailles
by Robin Givhan
Reviewed by J. Andrew Jackson for jandrewspeaks.com
Introduction: A Runway That Changed the World
Darlings, let's rewind the reel to a time when fashion wasn't yet globalized, when European couture ruled the runways with an iron hemline, and American designers were still considered the scrappy underdogs. The Battle of Versailles, the book by Pulitzer Prize–winning fashion critic Robin Givhan, takes us to that dazzling night in 1973 when the old guard of French fashion faced off—heels clacking and egos flaring—against the new wave of American designers. Yes, it was a battle, and no, there was no blood, just sequins, sweat, and the shimmer of social revolution.
I chose The Battle of Versailles for this week's Fashion Book Fridays because it captures a seismic cultural shift that redefined fashion history—and spoiler alert: it wasn't just about clothes. It was about race, gender, power, and the very identity of American style. It's a book every fashion lover—especially those of us who thrive at the intersection of glamour and politics—must devour. The Battle of Versailles was first published in 2015 and has remained on my bookshelf ever since. I have reread it several times and always gain new insights.
BATTLE OF VERSAILLES
About the Author: Robin Givhan
Fashion's Intellectual Firebrand
Let's talk about Robin Givhan, our authorial heroine. A Detroit native, Givhan is the only fashion writer to have ever won a Pulitzer Prize for criticism (yes, she did that!). Her writing has graced the pages of The Washington Post, Newsweek, and Harper's Bazaar. Givhan's approach to fashion is sharp, cultural, and never fluff. She treats a runway show with the same intellectual rigour you'd expect from a New York Times op-ed.
What sets her apart? She doesn't just ask what someone is wearing. She asks why, what it means, and who it empowers. Givhan's voice is precise, knowing, and biting when it needs to be. If fashion is a mirror of society, she polishes that mirror until we see all the uncomfortable—and exhilarating—reflections staring back at us.
Robin Givhan has just published her latest book, Make it Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh. I'm eager to read this insightful book.
Theatre at The Palace of Versailles
Colourful designs by Stephen Burrows
Liza Minnelli performing at The Battle of Versailles
BATTLE OF VERSAILLES
The Review: A Showdown for the Ages
In The Battle of Versailles, Givhan recounts the almost-mythic 1973 fashion show held at the Palace of Versailles. On the surface, it was a charity event designed to raise funds for the restoration of the palace. But in the hands of the fashion gods, it became a glittering battlefield where five French designers—Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan for Dior—were pitted against five Americans—Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, and Stephen Burrows.
Now, if you're thinking, "Oh, it's just a fashion show," let me stop you right there. This wasn't just a lineup of looks; it was a cultural upheaval. The French delivered a slow, ornate, museum-quality performance. Meanwhile, the Americans stormed the stage with energy, movement, and a groundbreaking cast of Black models—including Pat Cleveland, Bethann Hardison, and Alva Chinn—who twirled, strutted, and owned the spotlight in a way Paris had never seen.
Givhan delves deep into the personalities, politics, and preparations leading up to the show. Her journalistic eye captures every sequin and scandal. We learn how Stephen Burrows, the only Black designer among American designers, brought a fluid, sexy modernity that helped reshape not only the runway but also the public's perception of what fashion could be. We see Halston's megalomania, Oscar de la Renta's diplomacy, and Anne Klein's understated yet effective leadership. Givhan doesn't shy away from ego, racism, or the backstage chaos.
Most thrillingly, The Battle of Versailles champions the role of Black models in this revolutionary moment. These women didn't just model—they performed, danced, and smashed Eurocentric ideals of beauty right there on the sacred floors of Versailles. Givhan highlights how this wasn't just a fashion moment—it was a civil rights one.
The narrative is brisk, cinematic, and juicy. Givhan masterfully mixes high fashion with hard facts, pulling back the velvet curtain on a night that, quite literally, changed the runway forever. And she doesn't just leave us in 1973—she guides us through the aftermath, examining how this event accelerated America's influence globally and opened new doors for diversity and innovation.
Conclusion: When Fashion Wrote History
Reading The Battle of Versailles is like sipping champagne while watching history unfold in silk and sequins. It's fun, yes, but also vital. Robin Givhan doesn't just document fashion; she contextualizes it, showing how one night at a crumbling French palace helped redefine beauty, shift cultural power, and kick down the doors for new voices—many of them Black, queer, and American.
For my fellow fashion nerds, culture critics, and lovers of fabulous drama, this book is a must-read. It belongs on your shelf next to André Leon Talley's memoir and the catalogue from the Camp Met Gala. It reminds us that fashion isn't frivolous—it's a force. And sometimes, a runway is where revolutions begin.
So pour yourself something bubbly, throw on a Halston-esque caftan, and let The Battle of Versailles transport you back to the night America arrived in Paris and turned fashion on its head.
Have you read The Battle of Versailles? What did you think about the legacy of this legendary night? Slide into the comments or DM me on Instagram @jandrewspeaks—because fashion is always better when it's a conversation.
CIAO FOR NOW, J. ANDREW JACKSON
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