EMMA ; WHY WE LOVE THE EMPIRE CUT DRESS
Hello, darling's it's another day in isolation and another blog post, this one is inspired by the latest film of Jane Austen's novel Emma (recently on NetFlix). Certainly, I could think of things the world needs more than another Jane Austen movie. However, the latest adaptation of Emma directed by Autumn de Wilde is a visual tour de force. The visual feast of Emma is something to behold. Among the meticulous Georgian settings, we are treated to the exquisite creations of costume designer Alexandra Byrne.
With the color palette of a box of perfect macaroons, we are treated to historically accurate costumes interpreted by a skilled costumier. Since the lovers of Jane Austen are particular about the recreation of the author's world, this film presents costumes that are near reproductions. However, what makes them near reproductions and not exact is the artistry of the costume designer. In fact, a costume designer has artistic license to create a character, social status, and atmosphere. Equally important is the collaboration between the director and production designer to create the ambiance, mood, and tone. Notably, all of these elements are presented in the historical period of the story. The period here is the Empire or Regency period. Certainly many of you fashion-philes and emerging designers have heard of the Empire style, but what exactly is it.
EMMA AND THE EMPIRE STYLE
THE HISTORY
In its broadest sense as a term in contemporary fashion, empire style refers to a woman's dress silhouette. The empire silhouette has a waistline that is raised above the natural level. Additionally, it has a skirt that is usually slim and columnar. The reference is to fashions of France's First Empire, which in political terms lasted from 1804 when Napoleon Bonaparte crowned himself Emperor, to his final defeat at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. It should be noted that the styles of this period when referring specifically to English examples, are termed Regency. Regency refers to the Regency of the Prince of Wales, 1811-1820. Since the Empire/Regency period the empire silhouette has been a constant in fashion and has recurred to the present day.
WEARING THE EMPIRE STYLE
Certain clothing styles look great on almost every woman, and the empire style is one. The elongating empire silhouette is inspired by classical Greek and Roman sculptures. Moreover this classic dress is as flattering on the runways of today as it is in Emma. In fact once you've watched the film you'll understand how the costumes also say so much about today. While the costumes of Emma are period pieces, they were also created in the 21st century and have references to our current culture. Looking at the runway shows for S/S 2020 the empire cut is alive and well. Moreover designers are always giving a nod to historical fashion through the use of fabrics like lace and brocades, details such as ruffles, embroidery and silhouette. Certainly no designer works in a vacuum and influences and inspiration come from everywhere . Therefore if you love the costumes in Emma as much as I do, let them inspire you. I've created a shopping guide to help you achieve the Emma look—but, with a contemporary sensibility.
EMMA
Here we have Emma (Anya Taylor-Joy) wearing this gorgeous empire dress with a pale pink spencer jacket. The spencer, essentially a short jacket, was initially a brief menswear fad of the 1790s. It quickly became exclusively feminine. Though technically outerwear, many extant spencers are very lightweight and provide little warmth, suggesting they were largely used for varying the look and adding color to the endless white cotton dresses popular throughout the first quarter of the century.
Indeed Emma has a delicate spring palette that delights in soft airy fabrics. In fact, what I call night-gown chic is inspired by those empire style costumes. Certainly, these looks from the film inspire many and have inspired me. Delight in these pieces that will bring a little Emma into your wardrobe.
LoveShackFancy
EMMA
When you watch Emma pay special attention to the details that make the costumes so beautiful. Moreover, it is often the details that make an outfit stand out and give style and uniqueness. The adornment, embellishment, and decoration are part of what make the costumes of Emma so beautiful.
Emma wears an evening dress that is the knock-out frock of the film. Indeed this dress is the perfect example of an empire dress. In fact, the dress is a near-perfect copy of the circa 1810 red silk net gown in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Certainly, Emma is a display of confection dressing, statement sleeves, high necks, pastel hues, and color-saturated costumes. While Emma is a period piece it features plenty of dreamy, elaborate costumes that could have been plucked off the 2020 runways. Hence I've compiled those runway looks that you can wear to bring the beauty of Emma to life.
Needle & Thread
The Vampire's Wife
EMMA
Since I spent many years as a costume designer I am always inspired by a great period drama. Through "Dress The Part" I have often looked to film as an inspiration for fashion looks of today. Emma is such a great example of how period costume has such relevance in our current fashion. Certainly, every season we see clothes that borrow from our sartorial history and make it relevant to today. The romantic dresses of Emma could be worn now without looking like costumes. There are many examples of the empire cut dress in today's fashion. Moreover, this flattering silhouette is classic and timeless and I hope you have been inspired by Emma, as much as I have.
This post was featured on Links à la Mode fashion roundup by Independent Fashion Bloggers.
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